Thanks to everyone who donated to the Surf for Life school in El Cuco. We got a ton of work done and the school is almost finished. That said, we did get a little silly down there, exhibited by some of Holly Beck’s videos.
We are all smiles these days, getting so much love in every town we hit. An incredible night at Powells Books tonight in Portland. About 55 people showed up despite the 95 degree weather. For the first time we felt a bit like rock stars, especially with all the media interviews earlier in the day, […]
The best thing about screwing up or going down paths that aren’t authentically you is that you get so twisted up you have to self-correct. You feel something tugging at you under your ribs and in your spine and in your heart –some inkling of a beauty and freedom you knew in childhood or when […]
Come out and support Surf for Life and the surf community. I’m so stoked. We were able to block off the Great Highway to show these movies on the front of a house. Bring chairs or blankets to stay comfy.
Breath is a masterfully written tale of what it means to live in extremes; and since most of us, in our own ways, do, it’s a tale about what it means to be alive. I’m ashamed to say that I only heard of Tim Winton when a blogger recently wrote that Saltwater Buddha: a surfer’s […]
My whole life I’ve put a huge mental barrier between urban and natural landscapes. But I’m trying to dissolve that barrier and see the that we humans with our crazy and beautiful inventions are part of nature, inseparable, and that the false barriers we put up are at the root of our environmental problems. Drawing […]
Spiders. Snakes. Heights. These are the common fears people list in polls. But, as I wrote a couple weeks ago, a lot of us would rather confront any of these three terrors than have to ask a random beautiful girl or guy on a date. Our fear of rejection is so overblown, many evolutionary psychologists […]