Reading Tim Baker’s great new book, High Surf and wanted to share the Timothy Leary quote he starts with. You may have heard it before, but it always kind of hits me in a new way. “Surfers are the ‘throw-aheads’ of mankind, not the dregs; they aren’t the black sheep of humanity, but the futurists […]
Yesterday I talked about how I’ve been talking a big game of facing fear. Then I admitted that I haven’t been facing my biggest fear — sharing the art that is most dear to me. I put out a very short poem and I appreciated the outpouring of support. It helps so much in sharing […]
My friend Jackson and I (and his dog) found some fresh powder in the backcountry between Tahoe and Yosemite over the weekend after that huge March storm. I tucked my GoPro camera into my goggles and it worked pretty well. Watch Pokey, the dog. She’s the best part.
My friend Jamie Patrick, who is training to swim Tahoe 3x (a world record) led us on an awesome swim to and from Alcatraz on Sunday, along with his training partner, former US Olympic swim team member Greg Larson. Jamie’s doing the big Tahoe swim — 66 miles non-stop! — to raise awareness about environmental […]
I’ll be showing some of my little doodles and signing Saltwater Buddha copies at this Surf for Life benefit this Thursday. Looks like a crazy time. The proceeds will all go to the cause. More details here
My first Huffington Post Blog. The true story of how Saltwater Buddha came to be. Your body is made of about 60 percent water. The blood in your veins is close to the consistency of seawater. Even the human brain is more than two-thirds water. Keeping this in mind, try to feel that original part […]
Saltwater Buddha is already getting some great reviews online. Here’s one from Extremehorizon.com, a carbon neutral surf shop that’s showing other shops how it should be done. The review was written by Matt Strathern, who has his own novel on the way. He writes: Its almost inevitable that living the life of a surfer will […]