Snakes, commitmentphobia, exposure therapy, surfing. We covered a lot of ground in the Huffpo Live interview. I had a blast.
Back in August, 1992, William Finnegan wrote a classic profile in The New Yorker about Ocean Beach and big-wave surfer “Doc” Renneker. In the piece, he teases Doc for being so obsessed with the subtleties of surfboards. Unlike Renneker, Finnegan says he thinks strapping a dinner-plate onto a wooden plank would work sufficiently in the […]
This event has so much great stuff it’s hard to summarize. It’s at the best new cafe in the Mission, Socha. New gorgeous paintings by Siri Scull and Roger Yogis, Live Music by The Mellow Marshes, Surf Films by Roberto Vezzone, and book signing by the author of the new memoir, Saltwater Buddha. There will […]
Being in Porto, home of that famous mix of brandy and fermented grapes, I thought I would do a short post on the affects of alcohol on fear. It’s well known that having a drink or two takes the edge off, reducing stress, but psychologists at the University of Wisconsin recently showed alcohol doesn’t affect […]
ShambhalaSun.com posted the first excerpt of Saltwater Buddha today. Here’s what they wrote: With all that talk about “balance” — not to mention films with titles like Zen and Zero, or a kazillion other occurrences of Zen and surfing colliding (whether for dubious reasons or not) — it’s tempting to make tenuous connections between the […]
Sperm whales have the biggest brains of any living thing on the planet, ever.
I ate pig cheeks last night. We’d just arrived in the small, medieval town of Evora, renowned for its hearty cuisine and wines. As one who leans vegetarian, pig cheeks were the last thing I was craving. But sticking to my Portugal road trip policy of openness and zero expectations – and with our waiter […]
Can’t wait to get down there to help. Check out more at www.surfforlife.org
One of the best parts of the HBO series Game of Thrones is how well the writing captures fear’s many facets. In this scene, Brandon Stark, son of Ned Stark, is asking Old Nan for a scary story, prompting ominous talk of their world’s dreadful long winters. “Oh, my sweet summer child,” says Old Nan, […]
The best thing about screwing up or going down paths that aren’t authentically you is that you get so twisted up you have to self-correct. You feel something tugging at you under your ribs and in your spine and in your heart –some inkling of a beauty and freedom you knew in childhood or when […]