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set your heart free

Sharkwater


I’m writing a story for Surfer Magazine about Great White sharks so I finally watched the critically-acclaimed documentary Sharkwater. It’s an absolute must-see. Biologist Rob Stewart dives with sharks around the world, showing that they’re far from the mindless monsters the media has portrayed them as. On the contrary, Stewart and other experts show that sharks are shy, sensitive creatures who kill fewer people per-year than elephants or — get this — vending machines falling on people. It’s such a crucial film for our time because sharks, in just a few decades, have gone from being the top-predator on earth to one of the most preyed up on. Sharks have survived on earth for more than 400 million years through five mass extinctions. They’re older than the dinosaurs. But their population has declined more than 90 percent due in large part to shark finning, the practice of killing sharks for their fins alone, which can fetch up to $300 per pound in Asia where shark fin soup is a delicacy. The finning industry (which wastes the entire shark except the fins) in combination with long-lining and other dubious fishing methods kill 100 million sharks per-year and could quickly decimate the shark population, which would throw off the entire ocean balance in devastating ways. If the top predator isn’t around, fish and seal populations could boom, hitting plankton populations which provide us with 70 percent of the oxygen we need to breathe. Stewart argues that protecting sharks is protecting ourselves and he teams up with Paul Watson of the Sea Shepherd (see Whale Wars) to expose the illegal shark finning industry and more. The result is a harrowing adventure that will change your perspective of sharks forever. To learn more about sharks and what you can do to save them go to http://www.sharkwater.com/education.htm

Saltwater Buddha: The Film

It’s a very exciting day. We are finally beginning production on Saltwater Buddha: The film and you can view the pre-production trailer above. This is just the first stage — putting out the word and raising money — but I’m so grateful that the renowned and visionary film-makers at Nohoch Productions and Roberto Vezzone Films saw potential for Saltwater Buddha to be put on the silver screen and that we’re also partnering with beautiful organizations like Save the Waves, Surf Stronger, Las Olas Surfboards, and others. Plus, my favorite musicians, Jim Klar and Nine Pound Shadow, are creating the soundtrack, which I know will give Saltwater Buddha the right vibe.

If you’re interested in joining Saltwater Buddha: The Film as a sponsor or collaborator, contact Producer Lara N Popyack at lara@saltwaterbuddha.org

Stay tuned as scenes develop. I’ll be posting updates here.

To order a copy of Saltwater Buddha, the book, click here

Rise Above

Loose Connections — Tonight!!!

Hope to see you all that Aqua Surf Shop’s surf photography event tonight. As you all know, Aqua is the most rocking shop in SF and, as exhibited by this Paul Ferraris photo, the photography will be stellar.


November 11, 2009

Here’s the info:
AQUA SURF SHOP PRESENTS LOOSE CONNECTIONS 2
San Francisco, CA—Aqua Surf Shop is pleased to announce the opening of Loose Connections II, a special exhibition featuring the work of eleven photographers united by their art, their friends, and the ocean. The show begins on Friday, December 4th at Pkirkeby Fine Art & Framing in Potrero Hill.
 Rob Brodman, Scott Eggers, Paul Ferraris, Art Gimbel, Mark Gordon, Dickson A. Keyser, Jake Johnson, Matt Proehl, Adam Warmington, Sachi Cunningham, and Elizabeth Pepin are all Bay Area residents and photographers who share a deep connection to Ocean Beach. They have captured this landscape, and the special community to which they belong, in their personal imagery. Loose Connections II offers viewers a unique opportunity to see through the eyes and lenses of these ten committed surfers as they pursue a life of wave riding in an urban setting surrounded by natural beauty. 25% off all sales from the exhibit will go to benefit San Francisco Baykeeper. 

Catch a glimpse of the surfing lifestyle—and all the adventures that this passionate community experiences—at Aqua’s opening party for Loose Connections II on Friday, December 4th, from 7:00 to 11:00 p.m. Feast on Mexican food from an on-site taco truck while live DJs supply the evening’s soundtrack. 

Pkirkeby Fine Art & Framing is located at 128 Texas Street in San Francisco. For more information about the space, please call 415 863 3060.
 For more information visit -
 aquasurfshop.com

drifter

dreaming of pirates

been learning to sail and thinking about joining a pirate crew

Save the Waves Film Fest

These past weeks in San Francisco have been like surfing in a National Geographic special. A couple weeks ago it was solid double overhead plus, glassy, and my friend and I surfed alone with what seemed like well over 100 dolphins and seals. The seals were surfing ten to a wave, leaping out of the water and barking at each other while pelicans dove between them. Dolphins were coming right up to our boards, practically rubbing against us, and sometimes leaping fully out of the water just a few feet away as if to show how stoked they were about the wave conditions. It felt like we were all the same that day – all surfers, out for exactly the same reason.

So it was all the more poignant this past weekend at the annual Save the Waves Film Festival in San Francisco. Hundreds of surfers and ocean lovers came out Friday night to raise money to protect waves and see the headliner film, The Cove.

The festival started out with an appropriately festive vibe. We hooted and hollered at beautiful new films like Lost Prophets (http://www.lostprophetsthefilm.com/) and All Points South. We clapped and whistled while the legendary Captain Paul Watson of Sea Shepherd told us that the work of passionate activists like Dave Rastovich and the makers of The Cove has driven the Japanese whaling industry into the red the past three years. “I think this is the last year they’re going to be able to operate,” Watson said. “And that’s not because of governments. That’s because of individuals.”

Still, all the optimism and pride at seeing the surf community show up to support healthy oceans didn’t make it any easier to watch The Cove. Even though I’d heard about the dolphin killing, to see The Cove is far different. It brings home an absolute absurdity: that the animals we’d been surfing with for hours last week – mammals that scientists have speculated may be more intelligent than humans – are right now, in this very season, secretly being rounded up and killed for meat. It’s tough to stomach, but the coolest thing about The Cove is seeing how dedicated the activists in the film are. They literally risked their lives to sneak into a barricaded, razor-wired, heavily guarded area to expose the dolphin slaughter.

Leaving the festival, I knew that everyone had the feeling that these Friday night fundraisers won’t be enough. We each have to do more to keep our oceans healthy. The directors of The Cove believe that if the Japanese people and the global community actually know what’s going on in Taiji, the dolphin killing will be shut down for good. Environmental activism can sometimes feel abstract or hopeless, but this is a tangible effort all surfers can all be a part of and feel good about. Watch the The Cove, tell your friends, and take a few seconds at http://www.takepart.com/thecove/ and see what you can do for our mammalian surfing buddies.

Watch the trailer here:

Swell of the Season Hits Padang

It was the most crowded surf I’ve ever been in, but this wave made it all worth it.






Water Meditations and Reading at Books Inc.

For those who haven’t gotten a chance to join me on the book tour, here is a recording of a recent talk and reading I gave at Books Inc. in San Francisco.

Fierce Heart

Doing this Saltwater Buddha book tour, I’ve felt a little saturated with surf book talk. In-fact, I’ve been on a bit of surf lit boycott. Nothing against them, it’s just that in my little spare reading time, I’ve wanted to curl up with fantasy novels that make me dream of wizards and fairies rather than Amazon rankings. But waiting for my computer to reboot one day, Stuart Coleman’s new book, Fierce Heart: The Story of Makaha and the Soul of Hawaiian Surfing,
was lying in front of me, so I started to read. Now I’m immersed.

Stuart has transported me happily back to Hawaii – the sights, the sounds, the smells. Following the charismatic icons of Oahu’s rugged westside surf scene – people like Brother Iz, Rell Sun, Buffalo Keaulana and his sons Rusty and Brian – Stuart captures the spirit of the Hawaiian people in a way that makes you look at a place you may think you know with fresh eyes. Passages like this one, where Brian Keaulana is explaining the origins of the term “Aloha” to Stuart, keep popping up and making want to dig deeper.

“When people come to Hawaii, they hear people say, ‘Aloha,’” Brian says. “But they don’t really understand the kauna, which is like the meaning.” He explained that alo is like the leaf of the taro plant and signifies the human face, and ha is like the breath of life. “The Hawaiians used to put their heads together and exchange breaths. So ha is like Chinese chi or Japanese ki. When greeting each other or departing, they would touch foreheads and exchange breaths. “Aloha is enveloping someone with your whole essence or aura. It’s understanding the true essence of yourself and giving it to others.” Rell once defined aloha as “giving and giving until you have nothing left to give,” and she said this was the fate of the Hawaiian people.

That last sentence, “giving until you have nothing left to give” has stuck with me. Like the Native Americans, the Hawaiians were so generous to their colonizers that they nearly vanished. Hearing how it happened makes you realize why Hawaii has an angry side, but seeing how Hawaiians like the Keaulanas, Rell, and IZ have channeled that anger into art, surfing, and just plain do-gooding, maintaining Aloha in the face of so many challenges – is inspirational. Any book that got me to break my surf reading fast has got to be good. I definitely recommend it. Thanks Stuart!

Pick up a copy here.

Thanks for the Support!!!!!

In the midst of the wily western book tour and making plans for an Indonesia trip at the end of August (yes, there is a God!) there has been almost no time for thanking the kind people who have been supporting me along the way. Also, a lot of you (especially my mom) have been asking me to keep you updated on my media appearances and I’ve kind of dropped the ball on that too (the product of living out of my van). Anyway, here are some of the recent media highlights which have made the book tour possible. I am eternally grateful!

First, I could hardly believe that The Times of London reviewed Saltwater Buddha and in such a beautiful way. But then I’ve been told Jeff Baker at the Oregonian is more difficult to get a review from than the New York Times so I was equally stoked when he wrote two different articles in his column and even showed up at my Powell’s reading with his very warm and mellow son Chris. I also got my first TV appearance TV appearance on Channel 2 where the hosts basically just teased me for having put my parents through running away to Hawaii — and who can blame them? The very same day it was up to radio host Paul O’Brien’s beautiful river-front sanctuary of a home for a podcast interview on his show Pathways. Portland was so supportive, I was sad to leave, but crashing at the City of 10,000 Buddhas on the 4th of July and seeing my old friend Heng Sure made me feel happy to be back in northern California. Just after leaving the Buddha hall, I had an appropriately meditative interview with Nadia of the popular site Happylotus.com. I arrived back in SF just a few days ago after an absolutely magical reading at my old summer camp on Asilomar Beach and now I’m headed to Sacramento, my hometown, for a reading at Time Tested Books tomorrow and interviews with PBS and NPR, which I will post shortly. Lastly, just a few hours ago creative writing professor, Dr. Will Buckingham, sent me his very well written review of Saltwater Buddha on his site, Thinkbuddha.org.

There, I’m caught up for now. It’s a beautiful day in San Francisco and the warm sand is calling my toes. They’re getting squirmy. See you on the road. You can see upcoming events here.