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Monthly Archives: March 2009

My New Surfer’s Path Piece

Tuesday, March 31, 2009

From the March issue of The Surfer’s Path:
Everything Is a Wave
In a recent meeting with my editors, I found myself doodling tubes and A-frames on a napkin. In the pool during our family reunion, I had to stop myself from practically going into a trance making little swells with my hands and tracking them to [...]

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High Surf by Tim Baker

Tuesday, March 17, 2009

Reading Tim Baker’s great new book, High Surf and wanted to share the Timothy Leary quote he starts with. You may have heard it before, but it always kind of hits me in a new way.
“Surfers are the ‘throw-aheads’ of mankind, not the dregs; they aren’t the black sheep of humanity, but the futurists [...]

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Bear Valley Backcountry

Thursday, March 12, 2009

My friend Jackson and I (and his dog) found some fresh powder in the backcountry between Tahoe and Yosemite over the weekend after that huge March storm. I tucked my GoPro camera into my goggles and it worked pretty well. Watch Pokey, the dog. She’s the best part.

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Nadine Fawell on Saltwater Buddha

Saturday, March 7, 2009

Well, the report said the surf was bad today but I had one of the most fun sessions in weeks. The water was clear, the waves were decently overhead and there even some hollow sections. Combine that with the fact that I just received this blog from Australian yoga teacher, Nadine Fawell, and I’m a [...]

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daily journal

Tuesday, March 3, 2009

Rains keep pouring down. I miss getting in the water but happy our poor state is finally getting its due, at least a little. Drink up Cali! Plus, I’ve even been creeping out for some quick sessions in the dirty water here and there. Rain gives me a little time for journal writing too. [...]

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