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Monthly Archives: June 2008

Dan Duane’s latest adventure

Friday, June 27, 2008

Daniel Duane, author of Caught Inside: a surfer’s year on the California coast, has been one of my writing mentor’s for years. His magazine pieces and books are always worth curling up on a couch for, but I especially enjoyed this latest piece in Sierra Magazine, Savoring Wild Salmon, that chronicles a kayak adventure to [...]

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Erik Abel: surfer, artist

Monday, June 9, 2008

Sometimes I think the internet is turning us all into impatient zombies that live on two-minute video clips and can’t remember how to talk to our goldfish. But then I find something unexpected, something that gets me all psyched on the cyber-crack again. The other day, avoiding work while clicking around Myspace, I stumbled onto [...]

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My New Hess

Sunday, June 8, 2008

Back in August, 1992, William Finnegan wrote a classic profile in The New Yorker about Ocean Beach and big-wave surfer “Doc” Renneker. In the piece, he teases Doc for being so obsessed with the subtleties of surfboards. Unlike Renneker, Finnegan says he thinks strapping a dinner-plate onto a wooden plank would work sufficiently in the [...]

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Ode to my teacher

Sunday, June 8, 2008

All things come into being through a series of causes. The fact that I’ve become a writer – and one who writes about the ocean – has many causes, the primary one being that my parents taught me to love the sea and love reading at a young age. But in beginning these notes, [...]

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